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A QUICK (ish)
reference LIST
Clicking on this will open up the Cycling Experts website as
well as helping you find your local shop ..
 CYCLING
ENGLAND'S Programme for young people
(click on this link to open in a separate
window)
This page reflects
the things you need to think about when buying a bike, how to choose and fit a helmet and a simplified break down of checks
you should make every time you go out riding - and if you are not a
mechanic as I am not when it comes to rectifying anything more
complicated than a puncture, then ask your local bike shop to
service it for you, which is something you'd be well advised to do
routinely just as you would a car or any other mechanical piece of
equipment! For tips on how to store your bike, click
here - it does not have to become an issue!!
(
http://www.howstuffworks.com/bicycle.htm
) 
There is also a size guide on
the Raleigh website at
http://www.raleigh.co.uk/htmldocs/sizeGuide.htm
Once you have decided what
is right for you, then check out
http://www.atob.org.uk
and see what they say about different
bikes and manufacturers - at the end of the day, you are the one
paying for it and need to be happy about your choice. Some of
the smaller independent cycle shops may well allow you to trial it
for 24 hours especially if they know you, I know mine down here does
...... and check out
http://sportsmedicine.about.com/cs/sport/a/bikefit.htm
too - it really is so important to be riding the right sized bicycle
as it really can prevent both pain and injury, which otherwise is
just going to take all the fun out of it! If you are dithering
at all weighing up the pros and cons of getting back into the
saddle, check this out as well .........
http://www.cyclingforfun.co.uk and
if you want to save the planet, golooksee here ..
http://www.ecogeek.org/content/view/397/
However there is no substitute
for formal training be it 1:1 or as part of a group. A good example
of this is that I had one client who taught herself to ride ... in a
straight line but when she went out on a trial not yet having
figured out how to steer, had an accident which meant all her
confidence evaporated instantaneously until such time as she called
me in when we went back to basics to rebuild that confidence and
determination!! That took over six months before she even picked up
the telephone - now finally she is pedalling well, on road and off!
Remember with Bikeability, there are no age restrictions - that is a
thing of the past, training is open to anyone and everyone including
those who are less able .. there are no exceptions! Golooksee
at
http://www.rsct.org.uk/pages/fun_cycling_challenge.htm
!
 One
last question., a chain or not a chain?? Check this out ..
Most childhoods would be incomplete without an incident involving
lost skin and a bicycle. Indeed, given that the bicycle is the
world’s favourite means of transport (more
than 100 million bicycles are sold each year – double the number
of cars) and they all feature a highly-efficient but potentially
dangerous chain drive, we’d suspect that most people will have had
an unfortunate recollection of an incident involving a de-railed
chain, lost skin, grease and perhaps a destroyed garment or two. So
we like the idea of a bicycle without a chain., in fact Charlie has
got a prototype version of one. The Dekra-D Drive bike has an
internal drive shaft which offers less maintenance, greater safety
and a cleaner solution than a conventional chain-driven bike by
replacing the parts of the bike that cause the most problems and
require the most maintenance - the chain and derailleur. The
Dekra D-Drive
comfort bike retails for US$300.00
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Fitting of … |
How to check it … |
Notes .. |
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Helmets |
Make sure you measure your head and get the appropriate
sized helmet, also that it has a
CE EN1078
or SNELL B.95 kite mark. The helmet must be worn so
that it is level on the head, just above the eyebrows. When
the straps are done up it should fit snugly. The rear strap
should meet the front strap just under your ear near the
hinge of your jaw. All straps should be equally tight and
free from slack. A test for this is that you should only be
able to get two fingers between the straps and your chin.
The helmet should not restrict vision or hearing in any way
as it may prevent you from seeing or hearing approaching
traffic or any warning signals from other road users. |
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Which bike is
right for you? |
ROAD RACING BIKES:
Designed for use on paved
roads (opposed to track-racing bikes designed for tracks),
road racing bikes are designed for speed. They have a
lightweight frame made of aluminium or carbon. Riders
usually sit at an incline, crouched toward the handlebars in
a streamlined position. |
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OFF ROAD BIKES:
Mountain bikes have the weight and tread you need to move
around unpaved areas. They can have tires more than 1.75
inches wide, up to 27 speeds, toe clips to keep your feet on
the pedals, and often come with a dense foam seat/saddle
that has some stitching to keep you from slipping around
while you ride. |
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HYBRID BIKES:
Hybrid bikes make great all-purpose bicycles. Hybrids allow
riders to sit in a more comfortable upright position than
mountain bikes, lightweight frames make them perfect for use
on pavement, and they can handle light off-roading on dirt
and gravel. |
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CYCLOCROSS BIKES:
are lightweight
with narrow tyres and drop handlebars. Quite often, cyclo-cross
bicycles are modified road or mountain bikes. However, the
cyclo-cross bikes are different from other bikes, as their
frames have wider clearance, knobby tires, cantilever brakes
and lower gears. Cyclo-cross demands a lot from a bike
so
Bike Magic put together the
key things you want to bear in mind before you invest.
The geometry of the frame is quite different to that of a
road bike, mainly due to the higher bottom bracket height to
allow better clearance for the pedals and allowing riders to
pedal over rough ground. The frames also have to be stronger
whilst light enough to be carried, to cope with the high
stresses of riding fast off road. Aluminium is the
preferred frame choice these days. Forks are rigid and
hybrids allow riders to sit in a more comfortable upright
position. |
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CITY/COMMUTING BIKES:
A relatively new development although an old idea. The basic
ingredients for this style are; frame similar to a racing
bike, plenty of gears but not the ultra low gears found on
Hybrids and mountain bikes, straight bars like hybrids/MTBs
to give the comfortable more upright position, slim fast
tarmac tyres. It is ideally suited to commuting as long as
you don't have masses of gear to carry. And of course there
are the folding bikes which are ideal for taking on trains
into town in the first instance, one of the most popular
being manufactured by Brompton ~ check out all your options
at
www.foldingbikes.co.uk
!!
And if you travel a lot and want a folding bike in a
suitcase which becomes a trailer when you arrive, check out
www.bikefriday.com
-
they are neatly package
and save any grief you might otherwise encounter on both
trains and planes!!
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COMFORT CRUISERS:
Comfort bikes have the same sporty look as mountain bikes,
but let riders sit more upright for superior comfort.
Although they will not go as fast as a hybrid bike or deal
with rough terrain as well as a mountain bike, they work
great for beginners, commuters, or people who want to take a
ride through the park. |
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BMX:
Older kids and teenagers love BMX bikes, which have the look
of a motocross dirt bike. They have higher handlebars than
road bikes and mountain bikes and the frames look small
compared to the rider. Be careful though, if they are too
small then they will, as per the advice given re the frame
size, put a lot of unnecessary pressure on their knees and
ankles giving them grief later. |
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CHILDREN'S BIKES:
Bikes geared toward
younger kids have a small frame and raised handlebars fit a
child's body. They also include a spoke guard and coaster
brakes that allow a child to stop when pedalling backwards. |
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More unusual choices! |
RECUMBENT BICYCLES:
Recumbent bikes allow riders to sit in a chair-like seat
lower to the ground than traditional elevated seats.
Although some people are taken aback by the unconventional
look, recumbent bikes offer riders a comfortable place to
sit back and relax, however it is recommended that they use
hi visibility safety flags similar to the ones shown
opposite at
http://www.firestik.com/Catalog/flags.htm
TANDEM BICYCLES:
Great for a day
in the park, tandem bikes have enough room for two or more
people. Share your pedal power!
SPECIAL NEEDS BICYCLES: For FREE up-to-date advice
golooksee at
www.velovision.co.uk
After all, The benefits of cycling for the disabled are just
the same as for the able-bodied. Also please ensure if
you are using a recumbent, that you are visible and use a
flag on a stick as per ........................... |
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For cycling in those really hilly areas .. |
ELECTRIC ASSISTED BIKES:
There are various models around which vary in price and
capacity - amongst the names are PowaCycle, Powabyke,
Raleigh and Giant but beware- there is a legal aspect here
which is this, electric bikes are still bicycles, so have no
road tax, no insurance, no MOT, no license plates, etc.
Also be aware the cheaper the bike, the heavier they will be
which in turn will reduce the distance they carry you*. To
comply with this, they have to be limited to a maximum speed
under power of 15mph (although you can pedal faster than
this if you want, of course) and an average power of 200W
(250W for an electric tricycle). At present in the UK, both
E-bikes and Pedelecs are covered by this, although there are
moves to make E-bikes conform to the same regulations as
mopeds. If you are thinking of getting such a bike keep an
eye on
www.whycycle.co.uk
as currently as of September '08 ....
Electrically-assisted
bicycles are Road Legal in the UK provided:
- The electric cycle
weighs 40kg or less
- The motor
rating is not over 200 watts continuous power
output
- Powered speed
does not exceed 15mph
- The cycle has
working pedals
- Riders are aged
14 or over
Are licences, Insurance or
MOT’s required electric bikes?
No - Unlike motor cycles
there are no legal requirements for Insurance, MOT’s or
Road Tax provided the products meet the requirements
outlined above.
Are motor cycle helmets
needed?
No - The same rules and
recommendations that apply to cycles, apply to
electrically assisted cycles.
So wearing
a cycle helmet is recommended, but not a legal
requirement for use on the road.
Speed limit - Is the
maximum speed 15mph?
No - this maximum only
applies to the use of electric power, riders can travel
beyond 15mph with pedal power alone.
A pedal
sensor ensures that electrically assisted power is cut
when speed exceeds 15mph.
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Frame size |
Are you able to stand astride the bike just in front of the
saddle, with your feet flat on the ground and at least 3cm
clearance between the top tube and crotch. When you
are sitting on the saddle with your hands on the handle
bars, your arms should be approx. 900 to your
body to maintain a good posture.
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Saddle height |
When sitting on the saddle with one foot on either pedal at
it's lowest point, your knee should only be slightly bent or
depending on the type of bike and the position of the pedals
as that can differ, perhaps with your leg straight … you
should be able to touch the ground though albeit on tip toe
.. and when you reach out to the handle bars, your arms
should be approx. 900 to your body. |
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Tyres |
Are both tyres pumped up so you can barely squeeze the
sidewalls between your finger and thumb and do that have at
least 3mm of tread without being cracked or split? Finally
nothing should be rubbing against the tyre when the wheels
are turning. |
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Wheels |
Quick releases must be firmly closed with the levers not
exposed and wheel nuts should be tight with the wheels
centralised in the fork and the frame. The rims should
not touch the brake blocks nor the tyre touch the frame. |
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Spokes |
Spokes should not be corroded or loose and if any are bent
or missing, they should be replaced immediately. |
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Handlebars |
The stem should not exceed the maximum extension height mark
(the mark should not be visible). Turn the bars gently side
to side, the stem must stay aligned with the front wheel
fork. |
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Saddle and seat
post |
The saddle should not move either up or down or side to
side. It should however either be level or point slightly
downwards. Also check maximum height mark on the seat post
has not been exceeded at all - again it should not be
visible. |
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Frame |
Check the forks have no signs of accident damage such as
wrinkled paint near the top of the forks. The alignment of
the forks should follow the same line or appear to travel
forwards of the head tube. On folding bikes, ensure frame
clamps are firmly closed. |
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Pedals |
Check they are complete .. No missing rubbers, no excessive
wear and two orange reflectors. Ensure they are fastened
securely to the cranks. |
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Brakes |
When applying the brakes, pulling the levers back hard
making sure nothing 'gives'. Cables must not be frayed and
brakes must make contact with the rim before the lever is
pulled back more than one third of it's travel. Also can
you reach and apply both brakes comfortably? Excessive
effort should not be required and the position of the brake
levers reviewed subject to the type of handle bars in use.
Lastly check the brake blocks - they should wear evenly [if
they are not touching or travelling under the wheel rims]
but do need changing every so often to be effective after a
while. The metal shoe must
NOT
touch the rim. The law requires
requires pedal cycles with
a saddle height over 635mm to have two independent braking
systems with one acting on the front wheel(s) and one on the
rear (Pedal Cycles Construction and Use Regulations 1983 and
section 81 of the Road Traffic Act 1988).
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Chain |
The chain should be lightly lubricated with no evidence of
rust [making it prone to breaking] and should not come off
the front chain wheel[s] or come off and jam between the
smallest rear sprocket and the frame. The play in the chain
should not exceed 25mm at it's mid-point between front and
rear sprockets. |
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Gears |
Go through the gears to ensure the derailleur doesn't foul
the wheel and with hub gears, check they do not slip in
which case they may need to be adjusted by your local cycle
shop. |
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Lights (if fitted) |
Check that lights are firmly attached and cannot slide off
or fall off and swing into a wheel. Be especially careful
of lights attached to the front forks. Front lamps tend to
flatten their batteries slightly faster than rear lamps as
the bulb would generally be of a higher wattage. Some
headlamps (better quality ones generally) run at 6volts (4 x
AA cells), not 2.4volts (2 x C cells). These headlamps tend
to last longer on a set of batteries for an almost identical
cost per set of batteries. Whether LEDs make suitable front
lights is debateable. Unlike filament bulb lights, LEDs do
not throw a beam of light which would sufficiently light up
your path. LEDs are more about being seen that actually
seeing. UK Law changed in 2005 to permit the use of
"flashing" LED's but above all CHECK THOSE BATTERIES!! If
you have flat batteries you've got a problem especially if
you do a lot of cycling at dusk or in the dark winter
evenings! |
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Reflectors |
By law you MUST have a red rear reflector fitted … there
should be reflectors on each of the wheels and two orange
reflectors on both pedals plus a white reflector on the
front of the bike. |
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A few independent websites |
http://www.howstuffworks.com/search.php?terms=bicycles&x=55&y=22
http://www.bikeforall.net/linkcat.php?cid=89
http://www.whycycle.co.uk/increasing_comfort/bike_saddles/
http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bicycleseats.html
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I HOPE THIS HELPS A LITTLE !! However
please be aware ~ Carrying out these checks
does not
guarantee that a bike is safe, only |
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that it is in an acceptable
condition for a short ride .. We recommend that you have
your bicycle serviced and maintained |
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by a properly qualified
professional.
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On the subject of electric
bikes, personal experience meant I discovered that a Windsor
Powacycle the battery only lasted 12-13 miles even with pedalling
and to turn the battery on and off, you had to jump on and off the
bike to turn the key in the battery. On the other hand, a
Giant LaFree you turn on and off on the handle bars so 25 miles if
used conservatively, can easily become something more.
The
GiantTwist 2, even if used in a head wind on hilly terrain, subject
to the weight it's carrying, should be able to make about 50 miles
but I will confirm that when I get back from John O'Groats.* |
